I often receive questions during inspections and trainings regarding equipment care and storage. This is especially true for ropes, harnesses, and other nylon equipment. Given the critical nature of the work we do, and the ease with which nylon can be damaged, proper care is pretty darned important. Ideally, nothing but pure water from a passing thunderstorm and good clean air would touch your stuff. Unfortuneately some of us work in smudge pots like Denver...While you may not be able to control the air you breathe, you can maintain a healthy environment for your gear. Here are some of the major areas to consider when storing or using your equipment.
Keep It Clean - There's a saying in the field that "equipment doesn't die from use but from abuse". While wear from normal use definitely extracts, a toll few things can kill your equipment quicker than good old dirt. The stuff's a demon on moving parts like carabiner gates and works its way into the core of ropes like a pine beetle where it silently does its damage. Using a rope bag is a good practice for storage and toting it around. When flaking out your rope, be conscious of where you are laying it. Many people dump it on loose ground when there is a nice clean area nearby. Using a tarp really helps as does a helpful person or "rope tender" to keep it from dragging behind you on traversing elements. When the time comes to clean it, think delicate. Using cold water and either hand washing or using an inexpensive rope washer is best. If you use a machine, a front loader is recommended. First run a rinse cycle or two to flush out any residual bleach. Use cold water, the delicate cycle, and a mild soap like "Downy". Mild detergents are also acceptable and even preferred if the ropes are really dirty. The difficulty with detergent is making certain that it is safe for synthetic fibers and especially that it DOES NOT contain bleach. Adding some fabric softener to the rinse cycle helps to lubricate the ropes and make it handle better. Don't make the mistake of a friend of mine and use a dishwasher! We're talking way hot water and some very harsh chemicals. Always air dry your rope in the shade. Never use a clothes dryer, or (hang onto your hat) a microwave to dry your rope.
Chemicals - In a word - NEVER - let your gear come in contact with any acids or strong bases. Even fumes from things like a car battery can be really dangerous as the damage is not visible to the eye but terminal to the strength of the nylon.
Dry - Even pure mountain water weakens a rope. Wet ropes can lose up to 30% of their strength and ability to absorb impacts. They stretch more and are less abrasion resistant. And a frozen rope is about as much fun to work with as is the IRS. Keep 'em dry. This doesn't mean that all of you folks in the Northwest need to "hang up your ropes" during the winter and look for other work. Just make sure your equipment can air dry well between uses. If you indeed work in a continually wet environment, using a "dry" rope may be helpful though the longevity of the treatment is debatable.
Cool - Just in case you've been holed up in a cabin in northern Idaho for the last 40 years, nylon melts. Some of the synthetics used in different types of webbing and cordage melt at very low temperatures. Take a metal storage shed (or your '98 Range Rover), a nice toasty summer day, no ventilation, and you have potentially enough heat to do some real damage. Check your storage area with a thermometer if you have any doubts. If it's a lethal environment for you (~120 degrees) your gear won't like it either.
Sunlight - Ultraviolet degradation is not a big factor during normal use but watch out for those storage areas with big bay windows. You should avoid storing your ropes and harnesses where they are exposed to direct sunlight.
Retirement - This is really too big of a topic to cover fully in this article, but I'll hit on the main areas. For harnesses used in top-roped climbing I use the following criteria: 1. Any Damage to the material - frayed webbing, broken stitches, buckles? 2. Discoloration - possibly due to chemical exposure or UV degradation. 3. Stiffening of the webbing. Anything failing any of these criteria gets retired. If it passes I use it. For ropes, the criteria is much the same. Under number one above include excessive fraying of the sheath, exposed core, and changes in core consistency or diameter. I won't touch retirement due to use although many of us do use maximum criteria. I get enough phone calls from telemarketers without setting myself up for more abuse. Age is a factor though and most (including manufacturers) would agree that a maximum age of 5 years is appropriate. This includes shelf life! So don't buy that 600' spool of rope, keep it on the shelf four years and then put it into use expecting to use for five more years. Sorry pardoner, but my math says you have one year.
So you may have week old pizza under your couch, dust balls like tumbleweed, and more air than material left in your Grammici's but do your best to keep your equipment and storage area looking like a Level 4 research lab for the Center for Disease Control. Keep a clean act. You'll be more professional, your gear will last longer, and your mother-in-law will be sooo impressed
